Arkhangelskaya oblast
Arkhangelsk krai. Pomor land.
Covered with the romance of pioneer discoveries is paternal land of Pomors! Great scientist – reformer Mikhail Lomonosov and sculptor Fedot Shubin, Ar ctic singer the artist A. Borisov and the first ruler of the Russian colonies in Alaska A. Baranov stepped into eternityfrom here. The Pomor land has become the cradle of the Russian fleet and the “tricolored flag” was destined to be raised here. Peter the First was the one who took a fancy to it and built the first sea port in Russia, from here the first ship was floated, and the descendants of the shipwrights founded atomic submarine fleet.
“The gate to the Arctic”, “The space harbor of Russia”, “The center of atomic shipbuildng”, the cultural center of the North – all this is about Arkhangelsk.
Soft and mysterious are the colors of the northern white nights! Beautiful and free are the ancient Pomor tunes. Inexhaustible are diamond placers of the Arkhangelsk deposits, traditions of the skillful craftsmen are still to be found in the North. Stately is the Solovetsky archipelago and unique are the works of the Northern architects. All this is our small motherland of which we are so proud.
Visit the Pomor land.
Guests are always welcome in the North!
Arkhangelsk region is situated in the North of the European part of Russia. Its coast stretching for 3 thousand km is washed by the cold waters of three Arctic seas: White, Barents and Kara.
The area of the territory is 587 thousand square km. The population on the 1st of January 2002 is 1,4 million, 1 million of which is urban population. Territorially the region is formed by the Nenets autonomous district, 20 administrative districts, 14 towns, 38 working settlements, about 4 thousand villages, and also the islands Novaya Zemlya (New Land) and Frantz Joseph Land. In 1992 the Arkhangelsk region and the Nenets autonomous district got the status of the subject of the Russian Federation.
Arkhangelsk is the administrative center of the Region, which was founded under the order of Ivan the Terrible of the 5th of March, 1584 in the mouth of the Dvina river. To the largest towns of the Region the towns of Severodvinsk, Kotlas, Novodvinsk and Koryazhma can be referred. Nearness of the seas and the oceans notably affects the climate of the region, which is transitional between sea and continental. The influence of the Arctic Ocean and the Barents Sea accounts for the raise of the temperature in winter, while in spring and summer the cold arctic air producers the opposite effect. The winter is usually long (up to 250 days) and cold, with the low temperatures, the average is 26 degrees below zero and the strong winds. During this time of the year the whole territory of the region is covered with snow. The average summer temperature is about 15 degrees above zero.
The region has the abundant water resources. There are 70 thousand large and small rivers with the sum total length of 275 thousand km. The largest four rivers (The Northern Dvina, Pechora, Onega and Mezen) flow into the arctic seas. Wide and deep Northern Dvina creates favourable conditions for navigation and is the main waterway.
Arkhangelsk is the administrative centre of the Arkhangelsk region, was founded in 1584 under the Order of Ivan the Terrible. It is situated mainly on the right bank of the Northern Dvina and on numerous islands of its delta, the length of the coast line is nearly 40 km. The most famous among 12 large islands is Solombala. Its name originates from karelian word “solenba”, what means swampy island.
The area of the municipality “The city of Arkhangelsk” is 29442 hectares.
Climate of the city is subarctic, sea with long winters and short cool summers. It is formed under the influence of the northern seas and transfers of the air masses from the Atlantic under conditions of small amount of solar radiation. The average january temperature is 13 degrees below zero, the average july temperature is 17 degrees above zero. The annual number of atmpspheric presipitations is 529 mm.
The population number on the 1st of January 2001 is 364700.
Arkhangelsk is a large scientific and industrial centre of the North-west of Russia. Enterprises of wood reprocessing, wooden chemical, pulp and paper, fishing, microbiology, machine-building are concentrated here. 7700 enterprises are registered in the city, 2200 of them are of large and middle size. Timber industry takes the leading role in the region. 40 % out of the total output volume produced in the city belong to timber enterprises. Wood, paper, cardboard, cellulose, fish are still the base of Arkhangelsk trade with other regions of Russia and Western countries.
Present-day Arkhangelsk is not only the largest sea port in the North, but also complex transport centre, connected with other regions by air, railway and automobile transport.
Now there are 200 educational institutions and 18 municipality medical institutions.
Arkhangelsk by right is considered to be the largest scientific centre in the Russian North. Graduates from the Pomor state university, State technical university, State medical academy, the oldest in Russia navel school work in different regions of Russia. There are academic institutions of ecological problems of the North and ecological physiology of man of Ural department of RAN, scientific research institution of forestry and agriculture, Northern department of the Polar scientific research institute of fish industry and oceangraphy.
Cultural life of Arkhangelsk is rich and varied. There are three theatres in the city: regional puppet theatre – “Golden mask” prize-winner, drama theatre named after M.V. Lomonosov is one of the oldest theatres in the North, youth theatre, philharmonic society with thw wonderful hall of chamber music, fine scientific library with more than 2 million of books. Museums are the special pride of Arkhangelsk, there are more than 500 thousand of exhibits.
State academic nothern russian folklore choir, song and dance ensemble “Siverko”, Arkhangelsk chamber orchestra are well known in Russia and abroad.
Folklore groups of Leshukonskoe, Krasnoborsky, Mezensky, Pinezhsky, Ustyansky districts carefully preserve folk song culture, folklore and coloring of Pomors. Folk art is based on the pure inexhaustible spring of Russian national culture.
Arkhangelsk is a bright city where many festivals are hold. It held International film festival “Sozvezdie”, telefilm festival “Northern pearl” and theatre festival “European spring”, jazz and classical music festivals, bandy and taekwan-do championships. It is a grandiose holiday of the Russian hocky when “Vodnik” Arkhangelsk bandy team plays. “Vodnik” is multiple champion of Russia, winner of the European champions cup.
Universally recognized capital of the Russian North – Arkhangelsk was founded by the order of the Russian tsar Ivan the Terrible in 1584. The town was named Novye Kholmogory (New Kholmogory), and it was only in in 1613 that it got its present name – Arkhangelsk, which it owns to Arkhangel Michael Monastery situated in those days nearby. In 1583 Ivan the Terrible ordered his voevodas Nashekin and Zaleshanin-Volokhov to go to the Dvina and build a great town. Appearance of Arkhangelsk was caused by historical, political and social – economical reasons. With its appearance Russia completed the creation of defensive system, which provided security of the sea trade route. Till the XVIII century Arkhangelsk played an important role in the system of international sea trade and economical life of Russia.
Arkhangelsk is the first commercial port, sea gate of Russia, which opened the way to the West.
No town was as famous as Arkhangelsk at those times. Shipwright trade was developed in Belomorye from time immemorial. The Pomor land has become the cradle of the Russian fleet and the “tricolored flag” was destined to be raised here. Peter the Great set off the legendary campaign from here, which led to foundation of St. Petersburg in the delta of Neva river. Russian and foreign merchants from all around Europe came here. Foreign merchants imported Amsterdam satin, Venetian velvet, London cloth here and exported flax, hemp (ropes out of it were considered the best in the world), suet, wax, mast forest. Foreigners built their private houses and storehouses on the Zhabie swamp (there where is the beginning of Popova abd Loginova streets). Precisely in 100 years after the foundation of the city the main token of it became Gostiny Dvor, which was known to all merchants, Russian and foreign.
In 1693 young tsar Peter the Great came to Arkhangelsk and founded shipyard
on the island of Solombala. The first ship of the Russian fleet “St. Paul”was floated from there. During the same year Peter the Great came here for the second time, established monopolistic state trade of the most important export goods which existed till 1719.
Military operations of the Swedish fleet in the White Sea made Paul the I take care of fortification of the buildings in the city. In May 1701 the construction of Novodvinsaya fortress started. It was located at the mouth of the Northern Dvina, to protect Arkhangelsk from enemies invasions from the sea and since 25th of June 1701 the fortress fought for the first time with Swedish squadron. It was the first Russian victory over Sweden. In 1702 Arkhangelsk became the administrative centre of the region, and six years later – principal town of province.
Monument to Peter the Great was erected near Gostilye Dvory in memory of his great contributions in the development of the region.
Courageous pomors set off from Arkhangelsk to the Arctic seas to fish and to hunt. It were the pomors who discovered the islands of Kolguev, Vaygach, Novaya Zemlya, Grumant (Spitsbergen).
By right Arkhangelsk is called the Gates to the Arctic. The expeditions of V.Y. Chichagov and V.A. Rusanov, A.M. Sibyarikova, G.Y. Sedov, P.K. Pahtusov and F.P. Litke were equipped and seen off from here. The first scientific ship “Perseus” was constructed here. It was built for the study of the Northern routes purpose, after which the first Kara expeditions began. First air flights with ice prospecting purposes led to the creation of polar aviation.
Ice-boat “Sibiryakov” which set off from Arkhangelsk was the first in history which during one navigation navigation sailed through the Northern sea route. Last expedition of courageous I.D. Papanin, O.U. Shmidt, V.U. Vise, R.S. Samoylovich, V.I. Voronin set off from here, it became the first drift scientific station.
During the Great Patriotic War Belomor military flotilla was based in Arkhangelsk. Just like during the First World War, Arkhangelsk became the main port, help and support from Europe and America came through it.
Gostinye Dvory is a unique monument of Russian stone architecture of XVII century, one of the few of its kind preserved in Russia. This great construction of social character which united trade and defence function and which became the core of Arkhangelsk.
The building of Gostiny Dvor lasted from 1668 till 1684. It consisted of three parts: the Russian merchant yard, the German merchant yard and the central part called the “stone town” which was actually a fortress. The structure had a quadrangular shape and stretched along the bank of the Northern Dvina for 400 meters. Thw walls were 2,6 – 5 meters thick and had six towers: four corner towers and two towers in the middle of the walls running along the Northern Dvina river. The tallest tower stood in the middle of the embankment facade of the stone town. Its tent-shaded roof was topped by the state emblem of Russia – a two-headed eagle – and was called the Eagle Tower.
Today part of the Gostiny Dvor is used as an exhibiton hall hosting different displays.
Novodvinsky fortress is an architectural monument of the beginning of the XVIII century. The only fortification building of bastion type was constructed in the mouth of the Dvina river < in 1701 by the order of Peter the Great as a result of preparations for the Northern War. The role and its strategic importance was compareable only with Solovetsky Monastery. In the plan it is a square with four bastions at the corners and all necessary services inside the fortress. Dutch engineer Gerge Reze managed the construction. Peter the Great also managed the construction of the fortress, which was the prototype of Petropavlovskaya fortress in St. Petersburg. It was supplied by 180 guns. For those times Novodvinskaya fortress was one of the most powerful fortificate buildings of young Russia. The fortress existed till 1864. With abolishing of Arkhangelsk military port the complex of fortress buildings started to ruin. The last attempt to repair it was in 1913.
Now it is the place of interest on the water routes on the Northern Dvina.
The Culture of Arkhangelsk North is a unique and versatile phenomenon, with its own inimitable intonation and deep spiritual foundation provided by the distinctive historical and cultural environment, life’s organization and organic union of world and the world of nature.
There is a reason to believe that the first inhabitants of the North-primitive hunters and fishermen appeared here already 14 thousands years ago. And by the 8 century the early groups of slavs came. The setting of the region started from the territories of Novgorod, Rostov and Suzdal. The new settlers brought agriculture, writing, Christianity to the North. Here they became seamen and laid ways to Siberia, Norway, Denmark and Spain. Here on the joint of the three cultural components “the culture of sea”, “the culture of forest” and “the culture of field” formed the phenomenon called “Pomor Culture”. The architectural masterpieces scattered on the whole territory of the region astonish by harmony of their proportions, variety and beauty of their silhouettes. Among the masterpieces there are outstanding fortification structures in Arkhangelsk and Solovki, numerous monuments of white-stone architecture and town building in Kargopol, Solvychegodsk, Onega, monuments of wooden architecture, that made the North known as the very top of Russian wooden architecture in Kenozerye, Krasnoborsk, Kargopol.
Altogether there are 3 thousand monuments in Arkhangelsk region passported and brought under the state protection, including 1421 monuments of federal significance. The monuments of the historical and cultural complex Solovki and Kenozero National Park are protected by UNESCO, the complex of monuments of the museum of wooden architecture and folk-art is included in the State Summary of most valuable (monuments) historical and cultural monuments of the peoples of Russia.
On the territory of Arkhangelsk Region there revealed more than 800 monuments of archeology, the oldest of which are dated back to the 2-1 thousand years BC. Special interest is produced by the complex of Neolithic shrines on Solovki, and the ancients settlements of mysterious and legendary tribes “Chudi” and “lopi” 10-15 centuries on Pinega, Mezen, Vaga and Lacha. Monumental painting is represented by the unique icons, brilliant murals, including “the painting of the sky”, characteristic only of the wooden temples in the Russian North.
A very significant source of cultural and educational tourism is richest cultural and artistic potential of the region: folklore, rituals, songs and music, age-old pomor’s life structure, exceptional collections of old-printed and handmade books, monuments of folk applied art.
State museum of wooden architecture and folklore “Malye Karely”- The distinctive feature of the museum is that it was the first open air museum in Russia, it was formed on the basis of preliminatry historical architectural and ethnographical research, which helped to select monuments and its location scientifically
The main aim of the museum is to preserve unique local architecture, to show life style of ancient northern villages.
The museum is located 25 km from Arkhangelsk on the picturesque bank of the Dvina river near Malye Karely vallage. It was founded in 1973.
More than 100 cult, dwelling and household buildings of 17-20 centuries are located on the territory of 140 hectares. Domes of the ancient log temples and bell towers rise to the sky, fans of windmills stretch their wings, house horses proudly arch their backs on the board roofs of dwelling and household buildings – it is a living story about lifestyle and occupations of the northerners.
The exposition is located on the sector principal, which represent the models of the most characteristic settlments with characteristic planning of the Russian North. Each sector is a fragment of a village, where not only separate buildings are important but their mutual dependence.
Museum consists of six sectors, each of those reflects the certain type of peasant settlments, characteristic to the largest river basins of the Arkhangelsk region.
The Russian North is considered to be the treasury of the best examples of decorative and artistic local crafts.
The creation of a branchy net of traditional folk culture and crafts helps young masters to preserve traditions and to support their crative level.
Arkhangelsk regional school of local crafts, clubs of traditional folk culture from Krasnoborsk, Kotlas and Konevo, centre of the local crafts “Bereginya” fom Kargopol, “Berendey” from Velsk, “Radushenka” from Konosha are well-known in Russia and Barents countries.
Forums of local masters has received interrigional status: “Festival of the Russian masters” in Kargopol, “Ustyanskaya ssipchina” in Ustyansky District, Prokopevskaya fair in Kotlas District. They all attract masters not only from Russia but also from Sweden, Finland, Norway, Bulgaria and stimulate the develpoment of educational and event tourism.
Leading establishments of local crafts:
«Bolomorskye uzory», JSC
There are more than 600 craftsmen in the enterprise, it produces 400 acticles: wooden carving and painting, birch-barking making, patchwork, birch bird, etc.
“Kargopol clay toy”, Ltd.
The tradition of making clay toy has an ancient history. Now the Centre of local crafts “Bereginya” continuous the tradition. Restored house of merchant Veshnyakov of the 18th century. The Centre serves as an exhibition hall, master-classes, lectures on craft history, selling exhibitions are held for the tourists.
«Kholmogor bone carving», JSC
Bone carving craft tradition had been forming for five centuries.
Tubular bones of horned cattle, mammoth tusk, walrus tusk, cachalot tooth are used as raw materials. | 
